This section of Hanse Downunder is designed to help you understand how your boat works and how to best look after it in a proper manner that allows you to have trouble free boating and achieve the best possible resale value when you sell to upgrade to a new Hanse.
We will keep adding more helpful tips and other technical information here and invite you to add some ideas or ask for help by contacting us here.
It is a good idea to keep good records of work carried out on your boat and that is why we have designed an easy to use “online maintenance log” for your individual boat. Any Hanse Owner who joins the Hanse Downunder Club as a full member will have access to this facility. If you are not already a full boat owner member click here to join now. You can keep track of any work carried out on your boat and upload information yourself.
Please use the links below to find the relevant information.
Basics First Let’s all be honest here – how many of you would walk down to the marina after work or on the weekend just for a quick sail on your Hanse with a family or a few friends, unlock the boat, start the engine, drop the mooring lines and take off? This is one of the easiest ways to get into trouble with simple problems that can easily be avoided by a few extra minutes before and after each use of your boat.
It is important to get to know your boat and the best way to keep you, your crew and your Hanse safe and in the best working condition is to get into a simple procedure of performing pre-departure and pack up checks. By getting into this routine, every time you use the boat you will soon be able to recognise if something is not quite how it should be – and you can sort it out before it gets you into trouble.
Below are a few ideas that you could take to make your own check list. This is just a starting point for regular use around the harbour sailing – you would obviously need a more comprehensive list if you intend doing any offshore sailing.
Before departure procedure Learn how your boat works, including emergency steering, valve locations etc Check current weather forecast - click here for BOM links Check engine fluid levels and engine bilge for contamination Check battery levels and voltages Check bilge pump operation and bilges for fluids Check fuel level and glass bowl filter for any contamination Check fresh water levels and filter and pump operation Operate seacocks Check navigational lights and VHF radio operation Stow loose items LPG leak test Brief any new crew to your Hanse where safety items are, how to use the head etc Walk around boat and check boat hook, anchor, shackles, halyards etc Start engine and check exhaust water and gear operation before dropping mooring lines
Pack up procedure Check mooring lines allowing for weather changes Shut off engine Check bilges Tidy up sails and sheet lines Check shore power voltage and leave battery switches in correct position Fill in logbook for any items requiring attention Shut all hatches and pull blinds – leave head hatch in ‘vent’ position Fill water tank and pump out holding tank Wash down deck, anchor and locker, cockpit and hull
What should be serviced when? Apart from the pre and post sail checks listed above there is still many more items that require regular servicing. The interval at which these items should be serviced depending on the type of use and the environment your vessel is used in. Below is a suggested servicing schedule that would suit most yachts used in normal conditions within Australia.
Remember that regular servicing will ensure you enjoy your time out on the water! Hanse Downunder / Windcraft would be happy to organise any of the service work listed below at our Bayview Anchorage Service Centre. For Pittwater or Sydney Harbour based vessels, simply contact us here.
Vessels in other locations are welcome to contact hanse Downunder for a recommended service provider.
Service Item
Service Interval
Engine Service
Annual or every 100hrs (whichever occurs first) Engine oil, oil filter, fuel filter and zinc anode every 6 months, Water pump impeller every 12 months.
Slip and Antifouling
Annual
Sail Drive Service
Annual (to coincide with slip)
Hull and Deck Polishing
Annual (to coincide with slip)
Stainless Steel Polish
Every 6 months
Teak maintenance and cleaning
Every 3 months
Varnish work
Inspect annually (internal) Inspect every 4 months (externally)
Rigging check and tune
Annual
Seacock condition and operation
Annual (to coincide with slip - wooden bungs as a back up)
Steering System Inspection
Annual (to coincide with slip)
Keel Bolt Inspection
Annual (to coincide with slip)
Cathodic Protection
Annual
Anchor Winch Service
Annual
Sheet Winch Service
Annual
Toilet System Service
Annual
Fresh Water Filters
Annual
Sump Pump Filters
Annual
Battery Test
Annual
LPG System Check
Annual
Instrument Calibration
Annual
Full interior detail
Annual
Steam Clean and Scotch Guard
Annual
Bilge Clean
Annual
Hull Scrubs
Every 3 months (more if racing regularly)
Understanding Corrosion
This is probably one of most boat owners least understood areas of boat maintenance. We are sure most longer term boat owners have come across some form of this in their life and went away from the experience with a little less money in their wallet and no more understanding of what causes it and how to prevent it happening again. Here we are going try and dispel some myths of this mysterious dark art and give you a little hope of how to keep on top of it, please keep in mind that this is just a simple overview and please don’t hesitate to contact us if you want further information.
There are different forms of corrosion and we are going to start with one that is an electrochemical reaction between two or more different metals called GALVANIC CORROSION.
Different kinds of metals have different atoms and electrons, which give them different electrical potential. Metals corrode at different rates than others and are shown on the simple Galvanic table below – the faster corroding metal becomes the “anode” and the slower corroding metal becomes the “cathode”. Whenever two or more metals are touching each other or immersed in a liquid that can transfer electricity (water that your boat is floating in) there will be galvanic corrosion happening. The further the metals are apart on the table the more active they will be, other factors like how salty the water is, or the water temperature will also have an influence on the activity.
Now that we know that having different metals underwater will set up corrosion what do we do to stop your bronze or stainless propeller, skin fittings or your alloy sail drive housing from fizzing away like a disprin?
We do this by using “sacrificial” anodes that are made out of the more active metals like zinc, magnesium and aluminum – these cheap “anodes” get eaten away while slowing or stopping corrosion on the items we are trying to protect called “cathodes”, this is why it is sometimes referred to as “cathodic protection”.
Your Hanse has a sacrificial anode on its folding prop and one on the Yanmar sail drive protecting the underwater components of your boat. Due to all the different factors effecting the activity it is vitally important to check these anodes every six months and replace them if they have been eaten away 50%. The general rule of thumb is to replace them on the slip every year and then dive on them in six months time to check them. It is OK for the amount of activity to change from year to year and just as important that there is some activity on the anode. If you are noticing any other corrosion on underwater metal surfaces please get a professional to look at it. Please note that anodes can be purchsed from the online shop.
Simple Galvanic Table
Platinum
Cathode
Gold
(Least Active)
Graphite
Titanium
Silver
Stainless
Nickel
Monel
Bronze
Copper
Steel
Aluminium
Zinc
(Most Active)
Magnesium
Anode
ELECTROLYSIS which often gets confused with Galvanic Corrosion, is caused when a “stray current” is introduced between two metals submerged in a liquid that can conduct electricity (sea water). It can affect metals of the same type as well as dissimilar metals and can be very aggressive in eating away precious metal in a very quick time - depending on the amount of stray current present in the water.
The flow of electrons from the “anode” in the electric current quickly eats away the metal and is first noticed on the surface as pitting. There are many contributors of stray current, from a short in your own boats battery system, shore power, marina wiring faults or other boats berthed near you. It is important to keep a look out for electrolysis starting with signs of surface pitting by regular visual inspections of all metal fittings under water. If you have a concern get a Marine Electrician who has an instrument to measure voltages around your boat.
Seacocks
Hanse yachts come equipped with good quality metal ball valves for all underwater through hull fittings (toilet, engine, galley) to ensure the watertight integrity of the boat. If at all possible, it is best practice to get into a routine of shutting these valves off every time you leave the boat - and have some sort of reminder system in place to remember to turn them on when you board your boat to avoid damaging the engine by running it with no water.
There are several advantages to this practice - the obvious advantage is, not having to worry about the consequences of a hose or fitting springing a leak and your bilge pump stopping operation because it drained the batteries while your yacht is unattended!!! One other major advantage of regularly operating the valves from the open and closed position is that over time, without use, the valves tend to get growth and become stiff or even seized in the open position. So by the simple process of regularly operating the seacocks on your yacht, you will then have the confidence of knowing that they are operable in an emergency.
Fuel Problems
Having an understanding of some potential fuel problems that can happen on your yacht may convince you as to the importance of following a few simple guidelines to minimise the possibility of you being stranded or damaging your engine.
The main problem encountered with diesel fuel is contamination from algae, which survive and grow on the carbon and hydrogen in the fuel and the oxygen of any water lying in the bottom of your fuel tank. The algae sludge will eventually block your fuel lines and filters and corrode your tank and valuable engine components – Not Good!!! So what should we do to stop fuel contamination on my yacht?
Water usually gets into fuel tanks from condensation – so keep your tanks topped up to limit this. Be aware that this is also a bit of a trade off with the fuel going stale – you need to use your boat and fuel. Use a quality fuel additive that has a Biocide – these are very effective at killing any algae in the fuel, but will lead to any sludge blocking the filters, which will need changing at regular intervals until the problem goes away. In a bad case of algae growth your tank may need to be pumped out and cleaned. (We sell fuel conditioner at our online shop)
* Regularly check the condition of your fuel in the glass bowl primary fuel filter – this should show early signs of water or a fuel discolouring. * Be aware of other early indicators of contaminated fuel: engine won’t reach full rpm or dark exhaust smoke or soot on the transom. * Only buy fuel from a reputable seller – that has a high turnover. * Have a chamois cloth over the filler and use it as an extra filter when filling your fuel tank. * Fix any early signs of contamination immediately to stop it getting worse and to prevent any engine damage. * Be aware that warmer, humid climates and dark fuel tanks are the perfect environment for algae growth.
